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How to Choose the Right Developer Volume for Hair Colour

Picking the wrong developer is one of the most common reasons hair colour doesn't turn out the way you expected. The colour tube gets all the attention, but the developer decides how much your hair lifts, how well grey is covered, and how gentle or harsh the process is. This guide explains the common strengths in plain English.

What is developer?

Developer, also called oxidiser or peroxide, is mixed with permanent and demi-permanent hair colour to activate it. Its strength is shown as a "volume" (10, 20, 30 or 40) or as a percentage of hydrogen peroxide. A higher volume lifts more of your natural colour, and it is also harder on the hair and scalp.

The four common volumes

  • 10 volume (about 3%): Adds colour without lifting your natural shade. Used for tone-on-tone results, toning, and gentle colour changes.
  • 20 volume (about 6%): The everyday choice for permanent colour. It covers grey and can lift roughly one to two levels.
  • 30 volume (about 9%): Lifts roughly up to three levels. Used when you want a noticeably lighter result than your natural colour.
  • 40 volume (about 12%): The strongest common option, lifting roughly up to four levels. It is the harshest on hair and scalp and is mostly used by professionals.

These lift amounts are approximate and vary between brands, so always check the instructions on your product.

How to choose

  • Going darker or staying at the same level: 10 or 20 volume is usually enough.
  • Covering grey: 20 volume is the usual starting point, unless the product instructions say otherwise.
  • Going one to two shades lighter: 20 volume.
  • Going two to three shades lighter: 30 volume, with extra care.
  • Going much lighter: This is where 40 volume or lightener is used, and it is best done in a salon.

Tips before you mix

  • Follow the mixing ratio printed on your colour. It differs from one product line to another.
  • Do a patch test 48 hours before every colouring, even if you have used the product before.
  • Use the developer recommended for your colour range. Mixing different brands can give unpredictable results.
  • Don't leave colour on longer than the instructions say. A higher volume does not mean you should wait longer.
  • Wear gloves, work in a ventilated space, and keep the mixture away from your eyes.

When to see a salon

If you are going from dark to very light, correcting a previous colour, or colouring hair that is already damaged or chemically treated, a professional colourist can plan the right developer and process for you.

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